In Hong Kong’s ever-changing dining scene, restaurants that stick around for decades become institutions, as is the case with Wing Lai Yuen. This humble family-run diner started life in a squatter housing settlement, and while its location has changed, the classic Sichuan dishes that it’s famous for continue to draw crowds. Although the silky steamed chicken in chilli oil and mapo tofu are favourites, it’s the dan dan noodles, served in a fiery red soup, that are its chief calling card. Ask for the less spicy version if you can’t handle the heat.